How Cashmere Yarn Is Graded
Cashmere yarn is graded based on fiber diameter (measured in microns), staple length, color, and cleanliness. Grade A is the finest, measuring 14 to 16 microns with a longer fiber length. Grade B ranges from 16 to 19 microns, and Grade C exceeds 19 microns. Lower micron counts indicate finer, softer, and more premium cashmere.
The cashmere grading system exists to help manufacturers, brands, and consumers make informed decisions about fiber quality. The process involves measuring individual fiber strands under laboratory conditions, assessing the length and uniformity of those fibers, and evaluating physical properties such as color, purity, and the presence of coarse guard hairs. These measurements directly determine how a yarn will perform in terms of softness, warmth, pilling resistance, and longevity. Understanding this system is essential for anyone working in high-end knitwear production or buying premium cashmere yarn for personal projects.
What Makes Cashmere Different From Other Fibers
Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily bred in Mongolia, China, Iran, Afghanistan, and parts of Central Asia. Unlike the coarse outer coat of the goat, this undercoat, known as the fleece or duvet, consists of extraordinarily fine fibers that give cashmere its characteristic warmth and softness.
The exceptional quality of cashmere comes down to fiber fineness. A standard wool fiber might measure between 20 and 40 microns in diameter. Cashmere, by contrast, can measure as low as 14 microns in its finest form. The human hair, for comparison, measures approximately 70 microns. This extreme fineness is what places cashmere among the most sought-after natural fiber standards in the luxury textile world.
What makes grading essential is that not all cashmere is equal. Fibers harvested from different parts of the goat, different age groups, different seasons, and different geographic regions vary significantly in their fineness, length, and overall quality. The cashmere grading system brings a standardized framework to an otherwise complex and variable natural product.
What Determines Cashmere Quality
Several factors work together to establish where a batch of cashmere fiber falls within the cashmere quality tiers. These factors are not isolated from one another. A fiber that scores well on micron count but poorly on staple length, for example, will not perform as well as a fiber that balances both characteristics.
Fiber Diameter and Micron Count
The most important single measurement in the cashmere yarn grading system is fiber diameter, expressed in microns. One micron equals one millionth of a meter. In practical terms, cashmere micron count determines how the fiber feels against skin. Finer fibers are less likely to activate the itch receptors in human skin, making the garment softer and more comfortable to wear.
The cashmere micron count is measured using a device called an optical fiber diameter analyzer (OFDA) or an airflow instrument. These tools assess a random sample of fibers from a given batch and calculate an average diameter along with a spread figure known as the coefficient of variation. A lower average micron count combined with a low coefficient of variation indicates a high-quality, consistent batch of fiber.
Grade A cashmere sits between 14 and 16 microns. At this level, the fiber is genuinely ultra-fine and delivers the kind of next-to-skin softness that luxury cashmere brands build their reputations on. Grade B cashmere, measuring 16 to 19 microns, is still a high-quality fiber by any standard but begins to show a slight coarseness when compared directly with Grade A. Grade C cashmere, measuring above 19 microns, is considered standard commercial quality and is used in blended fabrics and lower-price-point knitwear.
Staple Length and Its Role in Yarn Performance
Staple length refers to the average length of individual cashmere fibers within a batch. In the cashmere grading system, fiber length matters enormously because it determines how well fibers can be spun into yarn and how that yarn will hold up over time.
Long staple cashmere, typically measuring 36 millimeters or more, produces a stronger, more cohesive yarn. When fibers are longer, they interlock more effectively during the spinning process, creating a yarn that is less prone to pilling. Short fibers, by contrast, tend to work their way out of the yarn structure during wear and laundering, forming the small balls of tangled fiber known as pills.
This is why fiber length and thickness together form the core criteria of any serious cashmere classification system. A yarn might have an excellent micron count but if the staple length is too short, the resulting fabric will pill quickly and lose its luxurious appearance within a season. High-end knitwear production demands fibers that meet both criteria simultaneously.
Fiber Purity and the Presence of Guard Hairs
During the deharing process, raw cashmere is cleaned and separated to remove coarse outer guard hairs and any vegetable matter. Guard hairs are significantly coarser than the undercoat fibers and can measure between 30 and 100 microns. Even a small proportion of guard hairs in a finished yarn dramatically affects how the fabric feels against skin.
Premium cashmere yarn quality is defined in part by extremely low guard hair content. The international standard for cashmere, as outlined by the Textile Exchange and upheld by organizations such as the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), specifies that true cashmere must not contain more than a minimal percentage of fiber outside the diameter range that defines the undercoat.
Color and Natural Pigmentation
Fiber color at the raw stage also plays a role in cashmere classification. White cashmere fibers are the most prized because they can be dyed to any color without the need for pre-bleaching. Pre-bleaching damages fibers and reduces their softness. Brown and gray fibers, while naturally beautiful, limit the range of dyeable colors and often sell at a lower price per kilogram. The whitest, cleanest raw cashmere commands the highest premiums on international fiber markets.
The Cashmere Grading System: Grades A, B, and C Explained
The cashmere grading system used across the textile industry broadly divides fiber into three tiers. While there is no single universally enforced certification body that governs cashmere labeling in all markets, the standards below reflect widely accepted industry practice and are used by major buyers in Europe, the United States, Japan, and China.
Cashmere Quality Tier Comparison Table
| Grade | Micron Range | Fiber Length | Softness Level | Durability | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Grade A | 14 to 16 microns | 36 mm or longer | Ultra-soft, next-to-skin | High, excellent pilling resistance | Luxury knitwear, fine scarves, baby garments |
| Grade B | 16 to 19 microns | 25 to 35 mm | Soft, slight coarseness | Moderate, some pilling over time | Mid-range sweaters, accessories, blends |
| Grade C | 19 microns and above | Under 25 mm | Noticeably coarser | Lower, prone to pilling | Budget knitwear, blended fabrics, industrial use |
Grade A cashmere meaning in practice goes beyond just the micron number. It implies careful sourcing, meticulous deharing, consistent fiber length, and low coefficient of variation across the batch. When a brand markets a product as Grade A cashmere, it should be able to substantiate this with fiber testing certificates from an accredited laboratory.
Grade B remains a respectable fiber for many applications. It offers warmth and an appreciable softness that the average consumer will find satisfying, particularly in garments that are not worn directly against sensitive skin. Many well-regarded mid-market cashmere brands work with Grade B fiber and deliver products that last for several years with proper care.
Grade C cashmere is common in the mass market. It is frequently blended with wool, acrylic, or other fibers to extend the material and reduce cost. When shopping in this tier, buyers should read labels carefully. A product described as “cashmere blend” or “contains cashmere” may have only a small percentage of actual cashmere fiber.
International Fiber Standards and Regulatory Context
The textile industry does have formal standards that apply to cashmere, though enforcement varies considerably by country. The International Wool Textile Organisation has published guidelines on cashmere fiber testing and classification. In the European Union, the Textile Fibre Names Regulation requires that cashmere be correctly identified on garment labels, and only fibers from the Capra hircus goat qualify as true cashmere under this regulation.
In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has issued guidance stating that a product can only be labeled “cashmere” if the fiber meets scientifically measurable characteristics consistent with Capra hircus undercoat. Products that mix cashmere with other fibers must clearly declare the blend percentages.
China, as the world’s largest producer and processor of cashmere, operates under GB/T national standards that specify acceptable micron ranges and testing methodologies for different grades of cashmere fiber. Understanding these fiber fineness standards is important for importers, brands, and consumers who want to verify what they are purchasing.
(See our guide on how to read cashmere yarn labels and care instructions)
How Cashmere Grading Affects Price
The financial implications of cashmere yarn grading are substantial. Grade A fiber typically costs between two and four times as much per kilogram as Grade C fiber on the raw commodity market. By the time fiber is processed into finished yarn and then into a finished garment, this premium multiplies significantly.
The scarcity of top-grade fiber contributes to its cost. A single cashmere goat yields only 150 to 200 grams of usable undercoat per year. Of that yield, only a fraction will meet the strict standards of Grade A cashmere. It takes fibers from approximately three to five goats to produce enough yarn for a single lightweight sweater. For a garment to qualify as premium cashmere yarn quality, every step of the supply chain, from farming practices to spinning to quality control, must maintain elevated standards.
This is why genuine Grade A cashmere garments from reputable brands often retail for several hundred dollars. When a cashmere product is priced extremely low, it is almost always an indication that the fiber does not meet the highest grading standards, or that the cashmere content is blended with cheaper fibers.
How Grading Affects Softness, Warmth, and Pilling Resistance
Understanding how cashmere fiber diameter, staple length, and grade interact helps explain why products at different price points feel and perform so differently over time.
Softness is the most immediate quality that consumers associate with premium cashmere. Finer fibers create a smoother surface against the skin, activating fewer mechanical receptors and producing the sensation of exceptional smoothness. A Grade A sweater at 15 microns will feel noticeably softer than a Grade C sweater at 22 microns, even if both are 100 percent cashmere by content.
Warmth in cashmere comes from the insulating air trapped within and between fibers. Finer fibers pack together in a more uniform structure, which actually enhances this insulating effect. This is why Grade A cashmere provides impressive warmth despite being made from very fine, seemingly delicate fibers. The warmth-to-weight ratio of high-grade cashmere is one of its most compelling characteristics.
Pilling resistance is where staple length becomes particularly critical. Shorter fibers migrate to the surface of the fabric more readily, tangling into pills during wear and washing. Long staple cashmere, as found in Grade A fiber, resists this migration because the fibers are anchored more securely within the yarn structure. A well-constructed Grade A garment can last many years with minimal pilling, while a Grade C garment may begin to pill after just a few wears.
(See our guide on how to remove pills from cashmere and extend garment life)
How Brands Label Cashmere Quality
Brand labeling practices in the cashmere industry vary widely, and some brands are more transparent than others. Here is what to look for when evaluating how a brand communicates quality.
Fiber content declarations are legally required in most markets. A label stating “100% cashmere” should mean exactly that, though the grade is rarely stated on the label itself. Some premium brands voluntarily publish the micron count of their fiber, a practice that reflects genuine commitment to transparency. Others simply market cashmere as “two-ply” or “four-ply,” which refers to the number of spun singles twisted together to form the yarn rather than the grade of the underlying fiber.
Ply count is often misunderstood by consumers. A higher ply count does not automatically mean higher quality. A four-ply yarn made from Grade C fiber will not outperform a two-ply yarn made from Grade A fiber. The grade of the base fiber matters more than the structural construction of the yarn.
Some brands use terms like “mongolian cashmere,” “pashmina,” or “inner mongolian cashmere” as marketing language. These terms can indicate geographic origin, which does correlate with fiber quality in many cases, since Inner Mongolian cashmere is historically considered among the finest in the world. However, geographic claims alone do not guarantee grade.
Common Misconceptions About Cashmere Grades
Several persistent misconceptions about cashmere quality circulate among consumers and even among some retailers. Addressing these helps buyers make better decisions.
The first misconception is that all cashmere is equally soft. This is simply not true. Cashmere spans a wide range of fiber fineness, and the difference in feel between a 14-micron Grade A garment and a 22-micron Grade C garment is perceptible to most people. Buying “cashmere” without knowing the grade is like buying “wine” without any indication of whether it is a table wine or a fine vintage.
The second misconception is that heavier cashmere means better cashmere. Weight does not determine quality. In fact, lighter-weight garments made from Grade A fiber can be warmer and more durable than heavier garments made from Grade C fiber because the fine, long fibers create a more efficient insulating structure.
The third misconception is that pilling indicates poor cashmere. While excessive pilling does indicate inferior fiber or yarn construction, even high-quality cashmere will pill slightly in areas of friction during the first few wears. This is a natural process as loose surface fibers shed. With Grade A long staple cashmere, this initial pilling phase is minimal and tapers off quickly. With lower-grade fiber, pilling continues and worsens over time.
The fourth misconception is that price alone guarantees quality. Unfortunately, not all expensive cashmere is Grade A. Some brands charge premium prices for heavily marketed products made from average fiber. The only reliable way to verify grade is to ask for fiber testing documentation or to buy from brands with a verifiable and transparent supply chain.
Buyer’s Guide for Choosing High-Quality Cashmere Yarn
Whether you are a hand knitter, a professional designer, or a consumer shopping for finished garments, the following principles will help you identify genuinely high-quality cashmere.
Always start by checking the fiber content label. The product should state the cashmere percentage clearly. If it is a blend, note what the other fibers are. Virgin wool or silk blends with cashmere can still produce excellent yarns, but the cashmere percentage should be at least 50 percent for the premium qualities to be meaningfully present.
Look for brands that publish their micron count. This is the single most reliable indicator of fiber quality available to consumers. A micron count of 15 to 16 clearly signals Grade A fiber. If a brand does not publish this information, you can request it. Reputable suppliers of cashmere yarn will have laboratory test results available.
Assess the yarn’s hand feel directly when possible. Grade A cashmere has an unmistakable buttery quality, a softness without any trace of scratchiness even against the most sensitive skin. If a yarn labeled as cashmere feels even slightly itchy or rough, it is likely Grade B or lower, or possibly mislabeled.
Evaluate the price point in context. Genuine Grade A cashmere yarn is not cheap. If you encounter a price that seems too good to be true for 100 percent cashmere yarn, it almost certainly is. Responsible pricing reflects the true cost of sourcing and processing premium fiber.
Consider the source and sustainability practices of the brand. Some regions are known for producing higher-quality cashmere, and brands that invest in responsible breeding, ethical deharing, and traceable supply chains tend to prioritize fiber quality as well. Look for certifications such as the Responsible Wool Standard or the Good Cashmere Standard from the Aid by Trade Foundation.
(See our guide on sustainable cashmere brands and responsible sourcing)
Expert Tips for Working With Graded Cashmere Yarn
For knitters and fiber artisans, selecting the right cashmere grade for a project involves matching fiber characteristics to end-use requirements.
For garments worn close to the skin, such as lightweight turtlenecks, base-layer sweaters, or baby clothing, always select Grade A fiber with a confirmed micron count below 16. The difference in skin comfort is substantial and justifies the additional cost.
For outer layers, structured jackets, or decorative accessories, Grade B fiber is an excellent and cost-effective choice. Its slightly higher micron count is less relevant when the garment does not sit directly against skin, and the longer-wearing properties of a quality Grade B yarn still represent excellent value.
When spinning or working with raw cashmere fiber, pay close attention to staple length. Fibers shorter than 25 millimeters are difficult to spin smoothly and will produce a yarn more prone to breakage and pilling. If possible, request fiber with staple length specifications in addition to micron count.
Store cashmere yarn properly. Even the finest Grade A fiber can be damaged by improper storage. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets repel moths without the chemical damage that mothballs can cause. Keep cashmere stored in breathable cotton bags away from direct sunlight, which degrades protein fibers over time.
After completing a knitted cashmere project, wet block the finished piece gently. This process allows the fibers to relax into their natural configuration, improves drape, and gives the fabric a more polished, professional finish.
Conclusion
Understanding how cashmere yarn is graded is essential for anyone who wants to make confident, informed decisions when buying or working with this extraordinary natural fiber. The cashmere grading system, built around fiber diameter, staple length, purity, and color, provides a framework for distinguishing between truly exceptional fiber and ordinary commercial cashmere. Grade A, with its 14 to 16 micron diameter and long fiber length, represents the pinnacle of cashmere quality, offering unmatched softness, warmth, and durability. Grades B and C serve important roles in the broader market but deliver a different set of performance characteristics that buyers should understand before purchasing.
As consumer awareness grows and transparency in the luxury textile industry improves, the ability to read grading information, interpret micron counts, and evaluate brand claims becomes an increasingly valuable skill. Whether you are investing in a handcrafted garment, selecting premium cashmere yarn for a knitting project, or advising clients on textile quality, the standards covered in this guide give you a rigorous foundation for evaluating cashmere with confidence.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is cashmere yarn graded?
Cashmere yarn is graded based on fiber diameter measured in microns, staple length, color, and purity. Grade A measures 14 to 16 microns with long fibers. Grade B ranges from 16 to 19 microns. Grade C exceeds 19 microns. Lower micron counts equal finer, softer, more premium cashmere.
What is Grade A cashmere?
Grade A cashmere is the highest quality classification, with fibers measuring between 14 and 16 microns in diameter and a staple length of 36 millimeters or more. It offers superior softness, warmth, and resistance to pilling, making it the preferred choice for luxury knitwear and garments worn next to skin.
What does micron count mean in cashmere?
Micron count refers to the average diameter of cashmere fibers measured in microns, where one micron equals one millionth of a meter. A lower micron count means finer, softer fiber. Cashmere measuring 14 to 16 microns is considered finest grade, while anything above 19 microns is standard commercial quality.
Is higher ply cashmere better than lower ply?
Not necessarily. Ply refers to how many spun singles are twisted together to form the yarn, not the quality of the underlying fiber. A two-ply yarn from Grade A fiber will outperform a four-ply yarn from Grade C fiber in softness and durability. Always prioritize the fiber grade over ply count when assessing cashmere quality.
Why does cashmere pill and how does grading affect it?
Cashmere pills when short fibers migrate to the surface and tangle during wear and washing. Grading directly affects pilling because Grade A cashmere uses longer staple fibers that remain anchored in the yarn structure. Lower-grade cashmere with shorter fibers pills more quickly and more severely over time.
What is the difference between Grade A and Grade B cashmere?
Grade A cashmere measures 14 to 16 microns with fibers typically 36 millimeters or longer, providing ultra-soft, durable, and pilling-resistant fabric. Grade B measures 16 to 19 microns with shorter fibers and delivers good quality at a lower price, though it shows more pilling and slightly less softness over time.
How can I tell if cashmere is high quality when shopping?
Look for a published micron count from the brand, ideally 16 microns or below for Grade A. Check that the label says 100 percent cashmere with no blending agents unless disclosed. Feel the yarn or fabric for a smooth, buttery hand with no scratchiness. Be cautious of unusually low prices, which often indicate lower-grade fiber.
What is long staple cashmere?
Long staple cashmere refers to fiber with individual strands measuring 36 millimeters or more in length. Longer fibers spin into stronger, smoother yarn and resist pilling far more effectively than shorter fibers. Long staple cashmere is a key feature of Grade A fiber and contributes significantly to the durability and longevity of finished garments.
Are there international standards for cashmere grading?
Yes. Organizations such as the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) publish testing methodologies for cashmere fiber. The European Union requires accurate fiber content labeling under textile regulations. China operates under GB/T national standards. The United States FTC provides guidance on cashmere labeling. However, no single global enforcement body exists, so quality verification relies on third-party laboratory testing.
Does geographic origin affect cashmere quality?
Yes, geographic origin influences cashmere quality because climate affects fiber fineness. Goats raised in harsher, colder climates, particularly in Inner Mongolia, grow finer undercoat fibers as a natural insulation response. Inner Mongolian cashmere is widely regarded as among the finest available. However, origin alone does not guarantee grade, and laboratory testing remains the definitive quality verification method.
Can cashmere blends be high quality?
Yes. Well-proportioned blends can produce excellent yarns when the cashmere content is of high grade. Cashmere blended with fine silk, for example, can enhance sheen and strength while maintaining softness. However, blends with synthetic fibers or lower-quality wool often dilute cashmere’s natural properties. Always check the blend percentages and ensure the cashmere component meets Grade A or Grade B standards.
How should I store cashmere yarn to maintain its quality?
Store cashmere yarn in breathable cotton or muslin bags in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and humidity. Include cedar blocks or dried lavender to deter moths without chemical damage. Never store cashmere in plastic bags, which trap moisture and can cause fiber degradation. Proper storage preserves the softness and integrity of even the finest Grade A cashmere.
